Every Jewish family has a different take on latkes. Some are flat and lacy, while others are thick with substantial chew. The beauty of this food is in its near inability to be bad. After all, we are talking about potatoes crisped up in fat. If you can achieve that, any recipe is sure to be delicious.

After testing five classic latke recipes, I determined the essential ingredients and have culled the cleverest techniques to bring you this very recipe. The result is a straightforward technique serving up latkes that shatter when you bite into them, revealing a creamy potato- and onion-packed pocket. This recipe is great for first-time latke makers seeking a vehicle for applesauce and sour cream, but even if you're a latke-making expert, this recipe still might help you out with a trick or two. Here's how to make classic latkes.

The Secret for Better Latkes: Oil and Chicken Schmaltz

The most important element of latkes, symbolically and culinarily, might not be the type of potatoes or which binder you choose. Rather, it is the oil in which these Jewish potato pancakes fry. Whether you use chicken schmaltz, a neutral frying oil like peanut or canola, or olive oil, the oil is what makes it meaningful for this time of year.

Cast iron pans are the best tool for frying because they distribute the heat evenly and retain that heat, making sure that the oil temperature does not drop too low after you add each latke. If the oil is at the correct temperature, the latkes should be done within the given range of cook time, taking on the savory flavor of the oil but not the grease. Look for a deep, rich brown color on the latkes, not a light golden-brown. When you try to flip the latkes they should hold together and not break apart.

Chicken schmaltz, or rendered chicken fat (sometimes flavored with onion), is a staple of traditional Jewish cooking. The flavor is delicate and supremely savory and can help you make truly special latkes this Hanukkah. Seek out a kosher butcher or your nearest virtual shopping cart and pick up chicken schmaltz for this recipe. Use half oil and half schmaltz for a rich, succulent flavor.

Learn more: How To Make Chicken Schmaltz

Matzo Meal Is a Better Binder

Matzo (or matzah) is an unleavened bread, akin to a cracker. Traditionally eaten during the week of the Jewish holiday of Passover, the bread is made with flour and water and baked quickly after mixing, so that no leavening from fermentation occurs. Matzo meal is made by grinding matzo into a coarsely textured breadcrumb. Although it is most often associated with matzo balls, it can be used anywhere breadcrumbs are called for, from meatballs to desserts to latkes.

According to author and culinary educator Tami Weiser, Jewish cooks often include matzo meal in their latkes because "it was the leftover product from the past spring [Passover] and kept very well." Dried breadcrumbs are a good substitute, but in latkes Tami says that "breadcrumb [use] is pretty rare and rather unusual." Matzo meal is coarser than dried breadcrumbs, so a key to including matzo in latke batter is to give the matzo a few minutes to absorb the liquid from the potato before frying.

Step-by-Step Guide to Easy, Simple Classic Latkes

• Prepare your setup. Heat the oven and prep a baking sheet with a wire cooling rack, so latkes can stay warm and crisp. Prepare a paper towel-lined baking pan ready to receive piping-hot latkes for draining.
• Grate the potatoes and onions. Use the large shredding blade on your food processor to grate the potatoes and onions in seconds. A box grater works well too (it just requires some extra elbow grease).
• Squeeze the potatoes and onion. To get crispy latkes, the potato and onion mixture needs to be dry. A tea towel absorbs the liquid and starch, while cheesecloth lets it pass right through. Tie the cheesecloth around the handle of a wooden spoon for extra leverage in squeezing.
• Mix the potato starch, egg, matzo, salt, and pepper with the potatoes and onion. Use your fingers to evenly distribute all of the ingredients. The potato starch is slippery and wants to cling to itself. Be sure to work it into the potato mixture.
• Form latkes. Use a 1/4 cup measuring cup, a fish spatula, your fingers, and a fork to form a flat, four-inch patty.
• Fry the latkes. Heat the oil (and schmaltz, if using) until latkes sizzle immediately upon entering the oil. Fry until each side is dark golden-brown.
• Drain and serve. Remove hot, crisp latkes from the oil and drain on paper towels. Serve or keep warm in the oven.

Serving Classic Latkes

Resist the urge to bite into the crispy pancake until it cools slightly and drains on a few layers of paper towel. Flecks of shredded potato reach out from the center, becoming shatteringly crisp. Serve the latkes warm with a dollop of cool sour cream or chunky sweet applesauce under the warm glow of candlelight. With this recipe, your latkes will please all who gather at your holiday table, thanks to simple ingredients and a few smart techniques gleaned from classic recipes.

Classic Latkes: Watch the Video