If you haven’t been to Bordeaux in a while, you might be in for a shock, although it’s more like, you’ll be in for a treat. Previously considered a staid city, Bordeaux has rebooted itself, partially thanks to a tram system that makes getting around the formerly congested city a breeze, but also because the TGV now can get you there in around two hours, from Paris.

Because of that, and for a variety of other reasons, such as a more relaxed lifestyle and better weather, there’s a lot of fresh energy in town as a number of Parisians are moving south. And It’s easy to see why.

To ward off incoming hoards from the north, there’s a joke that bakeries are charging people €1,50 if they ordered a pain au chocolat, since the correct term in town is chocolatine. In addition to warmer temperatures (which can get quite hot in the summer, although more places have fans, A/C, and ice), there’s a pleasant Spanish vibe in the food and drink categories, due to its closeness to Spain. And there’s also a big river, the Garonne, that runs through town, and prices are gentler. (Unless you get charged €1,50 for a chocolatine, which to an American, seems like a bargain.)

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